Floods and Landslides Devastate Sukabumi, West Java: A Historical Look at Palabuhanratu’s Resilience

 

As December 2024 drew to a close, a devastating natural disaster struck Sukabumi Regency, West Java. On Wednesday, December 4, torrential rains triggered severe flooding and landslides, claiming lives and damaging property across the region. A viral video showing cars swept away by floodwaters captured the gravity of the situation, drawing widespread attention on social media. According to the West Java Regional Disaster Management Agency (BPBD), five people had been confirmed dead, and seven others were missing by the morning of December 7. In response, the Sukabumi Regency Government declared a one-week emergency response status to assist with the relief efforts.

The flooding and landslides primarily affected areas near the coast, including Palabuhanratu, the capital of Sukabumi Regency. Known for its stunning beaches and powerful waves, Palabuhanratu has long been a popular tourist destination. In addition to its natural beauty, Palabuhanratu holds a rich cultural and historical significance, with tales of royalty and legendary figures tied to its coastal waters.

Palabuhanratu’s name is deeply embedded in both history and legend. As described in Sejarah Jawa Barat untuk Pariwisata II (1974), the name is believed to be derived from Nyai Ratu or Ratu Puun Purnamasari, a princess from the royal family of King Siliwangi. According to the book, the princess and her father fled to the southern part of Sukabumi to escape an invading army. After the death of the enemy leader, Ratu Puun Purnamasari was crowned by the people of Cimandiri, establishing a royal presence near the Cimandiri River, which eventually moved to the location now known as Palabuhanratu.

Another intriguing story linked to Palabuhanratu is that of Dewi Kadita, a beautiful princess cursed by her father’s jealous concubines. After being exiled, she wandered to the beach, where a dream revealed that her curse could only be broken by diving into the sea. Her subsequent recovery and transformation marked the beginning of her association with the coast, and she became known as Nyai Roro Kidul, the Queen of the Southern Sea.

The Dutch colonial era also left a lasting mark on Palabuhanratu. The Dutch referred to the area as Wijnkoopsbaai, and records show that Dutch colonial officials, including Governor-General Abraham van Riebeck, played a role in the development of the region. In 1712, Van Riebeck brought coffee seeds to the area, which later led to the establishment of successful coffee plantations in the Priangan region. The introduction of coffee cultivation helped shape the economic and agricultural landscape of Sukabumi.

Palabuhanratu’s significance as a tourist destination has deep roots in history. Colonial-era travel guides like Batavia, Buitenzorg en de Preanger. Gids voor Bezoekers en Toeristen (1891) mention Wijnkoopsbaai (Palabuhanratu) as a popular beach destination. Tourists of the time were drawn to the natural beauty of the area, including its large waves, perfect for surfing, and the serene coastal views.

In Pariwisata Bahari di Hindia Belanda pada Akhir Abad ke-19 (2023), Achmad Sunjayadi notes that visitors to Wijnkoopsbaai could enjoy the scenic beauty of the sea, caves along the coast, and local seafood delicacies. Other travel guides, like Van Stockum’s Travellers Handbook for The Dutch East Indies (1930), offered similar recommendations, highlighting the journey through lush villages and tea plantations that visitors could take on their way to the beach.

While the coastal beauty remains a draw for tourists, Palabuhanratu also offers a rich cultural heritage. The locals, who depend on the sea for their livelihood, continue to celebrate the Upacara Melabuh, or Sea Offering Ceremony, each year. This ritual, described in Upacara Melabuh di Palabuhanratu (1999), dates back to a time when Palabuhanratu was under the rule of King Danarasa. After a period of poor fish catches, the king sought divine guidance, and a promise was made to offer annual tributes if the fishing improved. Following the pledge, fish catches flourished once again, and the ceremony became an annual tradition.

The resilience of Palabuhanratu’s people is also reflected in the lives of its fishermen. A unique aspect of the local fishing industry is shark hunting, as described by Manon Osseweijer in A Toothy Tale, a Short History of Shark Fisheries and Trade in Shark Products in Twentieth-Century Indonesia (2007). Fishermen in Wijnkoopsbaai would embark on nightly trips in small boats to catch sharks. Using long lines, they would first catch layur fish as bait and then venture into the open sea to hunt sharks. The process was physically demanding, with fishermen allowing the sharks to exhaust themselves before hauling them aboard.

These fishermen’s stories, like those of the locals, are marked by endurance and determination. In the face of natural disasters such as the December 2024 floods, these resilient communities continue to uphold their traditions, honoring their history and preserving the spirit of Palabuhanratu as a place of both natural beauty and cultural significance.

The floods and landslides that devastated Sukabumi Regency in December 2024 serve as a stark reminder of the power of nature. However, they also highlight the enduring strength of Palabuhanratu and its people. As the region recovers from the disaster, the cultural and historical significance of this coastal area remains a key part of its identity. Whether through the waves that once drew tourists and surfers or the myths and legends that continue to shape the local culture, Palabuhanratu stands as a testament to the resilience of the people of Sukabumi.