The Forgotten Treasure: Candi Plaosan’s Rediscovery and Legacy


 

In the heart of Prambanan lies a hidden gem of Indonesia’s ancient past, Candi Plaosan. Often overshadowed by its grander neighbor, the Prambanan Temple, Candi Plaosan tells a quieter yet equally compelling story of rediscovery, resilience, and the mysteries of history. This article explores the journey of its rediscovery and the contributions of 19th-century scholars to preserving this remarkable site.

In 1854, Jan Frederik Gerrit Brumund, a Dutch pastor stationed in Surabaya, set out to explore the Prambanan region. Despite having little expectation, Brumund found more than he imagined. His journey, recounted in Indiana: Verzameling van stukken van onderscheiden aard, over Landen, Volken, Oudheden en Geschiedenis van den Indischen Archipel Jilid II, describes a hidden temple complex cloaked in overgrowth. “Candi Plaosan was in a nearly collapsed and neglected condition,” Brumund wrote, likening it to a hill overtaken by trees and reeds.

Brumund’s visit wasn’t the first. In 1845, J. Munnich had documented the temple in Eenige bijdragen to het onderzoek der oudheden op Java. However, it was Brumund’s more detailed observations that captured the temple’s state and laid the groundwork for future studies.

Candi Plaosan remained absent from early 19th-century accounts, including Colonel Colin Mackenzie’s reports and Thomas Stamford Raffles’ History of Java. This absence underscores the temple’s obscurity in colonial records. Brumund’s exploration, followed by visits from scholars like J.W. Ijzerman and R.D.M. Verbeek, brought Plaosan to academic attention.

Ijzerman, a prominent archaeologist, visited the site in 1891 during his tenure as Chairman of the Archeologische Vereeniging. By then, parts of the temple had collapsed, possibly due to an 1867 earthquake. However, the site was cleaner, and Ijzerman meticulously documented the temple’s layout and decorations. His contributions corrected and expanded Brumund’s initial findings.

R.D.M. Verbeek, in his 1889 report Oudheden Van Java, echoed Ijzerman’s observations. He noted that key artifacts, such as the stone stele mentioned by Brumund, had been moved to the Batavia Museum. These collective efforts preserved a snapshot of the temple’s condition during its rediscovery phase.

Candi Plaosan is believed to have been constructed during the Mataram Kuno period, but its precise origins remain debated. Short inscriptions found on smaller temples (candi perwara) within the Plaosan Lor complex mention figures like Rakai Pikatan and Sri Kahulunan, suggesting a link to their reign. This connection supports the theory that the temple was built in the 9th century. However, historian Boechari and others argue that such a massive project would require more time, possibly extending beyond Rakai Pikatan’s rule.

N.J. Krom offers a different perspective, proposing a later construction date in the 10th century. His analysis focuses on the materials used, particularly the white stones sourced from the abandoned Ratu Boko site. This theory suggests that the temple reflects a transitional phase in Java’s architectural history.

Rediscovered in a state of neglect, Candi Plaosan symbolizes the impermanence of human achievements. Like many ancient structures in Indonesia, the temple was abandoned by its community, leaving it vulnerable to natural decay. However, 19th-century records have provided invaluable insights into its history and condition. These early efforts by Brumund, Ijzerman, and Verbeek ensured that Plaosan’s story survived for future generations.

Today, Candi Plaosan stands as a testament to Indonesia’s rich cultural heritage. Its intricate carvings and harmonious layout remind visitors of a bygone era of artistry and devotion. While questions about its origins remain, Plaosan invites us to embrace its mysteries and honor the scholars who brought its story back to life.

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