Exploring 19th-Century Java Through the Eyes of Two Travelers: Arya Purwalelana and William D’Almeida

 

In the 19th century, Java was a land of transformation, marked by the intersection of traditional Javanese culture and the growing influence of colonialism and technology. Two unique perspectives, penned by individuals from distinct cultural backgrounds, offer a vivid portrait of this dynamic era. The first, Arya Purwalelana, a Javanese nobleman, and the second, William Barrington D’Almeida, a Portuguese-descended merchant and lawyer, traveled through Java and recorded their experiences in their respective works. These accounts not only document their journeys but also provide a fascinating lens into the evolving landscape of 19th-century Java.

Arya Purwalelana, born Raden Mas Arya Adipati Candranegara V, was a prominent Javanese nobleman who served as the Regent of Kudus and Brebes in the mid-19th century. His work, Carios Bab Lampah-lampahipun Raden Mas Arya Purwalelana, or The Journey of Arya Purwalelana Around Java (1860-1875), is a groundbreaking literary contribution, becoming the first prose work in Javanese script and language during that era. His travels, documented over four separate journeys between 1860 and 1875, cover an expansive portion of Java, with Purwalelana visiting 18 out of the island’s 22 residencies.

A pioneer in his approach, Purwalelana abandoned the traditional Javanese tembang (poetic verse) and embraced prose as a medium to document his observations and interactions with various local officials, landscapes, and technological advancements. His admiration for the burgeoning railway system, modern weaponry, and machinery used in sugar factories highlights his fascination with European technology, which was making its way into the fabric of Javanese life at the time.

However, despite his European-style education, Purwalelana remained deeply rooted in his Javanese identity. His accounts reflect a keen observation of the social and political structures of Java, particularly his interactions with local officials like district chiefs and regents. He often stayed in the homes of these officials during his travels, while also utilizing inns, lodges, and various modes of transportation, from steamships to horseback.

Purwalelana’s prose is not entirely free from the literary traditions of his homeland. In his descriptions of places like Mangkunegaran Duchy and Mount Jambu, he used the dandanggula style, a traditional form of Javanese poetry, blending old and new in his writing. His work, highly regarded at the time, was a monument of literary evolution, inspiring other writers to adopt prose as a means of storytelling.

On the other side of this cultural narrative stands William Barrington D’Almeida, a Portuguese-descended merchant from Singapore, who later became a lawyer in England. D’Almeida’s work, Life in Java With The Sketches of The Javanese, presents a different perspective on the island, seen through the eyes of a European traveler. Alongside his wife, D’Almeida journeyed through Java between 1861 and 1863, recording his impressions of the land, its people, and their customs.

Unlike Purwalelana, D’Almeida’s travels were more cursory, as his primary interactions were with Dutch colonial officials and European landowners. His limited proficiency in the Malay language meant that he relied heavily on his servant, Drahman, to facilitate communication with the local population. Through Drahman, D’Almeida gathered local folklore, which he documented with a sense of wonder, albeit from a distant, outsider’s perspective.

D’Almeida’s work offers a snapshot of Java’s natural beauty, focusing on the landscapes and rituals he encountered. His account of witnessing the Kasodo ritual at Mount Bromo, a ceremony still practiced by the Tenggerese community today, reflects his admiration for the island’s unique traditions. However, some critics, like J.E. Casper in his 1928 monograph Tengger en de Tenggereezen, found D’Almeida’s descriptions to be superficial, lacking the depth required to fully understand the cultural nuances of the region.

One striking moment in D’Almeida’s travels occurred in Temanggung, where he faced an unusual reception. After being warmly welcomed in other regions, he was denied lodging at the home of a local official, as the residence was already occupied by other colonial authorities. This unexpected rejection was a rare instance of tension between a European traveler and the local elite, illustrating the complex social dynamics at play during the colonial period.

Though their experiences were vastly different, the works of Arya Purwalelana and William D’Almeida offer complementary perspectives on Java in the 19th century. Purwalelana, a native son of Java, explored the island with a deep understanding of its social structures and an appreciation for its emerging technologies. His writings provide a rare glimpse into the lives of local officials and the technological advancements that were transforming the island.

D’Almeida, on the other hand, approached Java as an outsider, more focused on its landscapes and rituals than its social intricacies. His encounters with the local population were mediated through servants, and his interactions with colonial officials reflect the broader European view of superiority over the indigenous population.

Despite these differences, both works serve as valuable historical documents, offering insights into Java’s natural beauty, social hierarchy, and technological progress. Together, they form a rich tapestry that allows modern readers to peer into the past and witness the evolution of a land caught between tradition and modernity.

As Java transitioned from the aftermath of the Java War (1825-1830) into an era of technological innovation and colonial expansion, the writings of Arya Purwalelana and William D’Almeida captured this pivotal moment in history. Their journeys not only provide us with a window into the past but also remind us of the diversity of perspectives that shape our understanding of history.