The Forgotten Temples of West Java: Unearthing the Ancient Civilization Along the Citarum River

 

Nestled near the banks of the Citarum River in West Java lies an archaeological wonder that remains largely unknown to many: the Batujaya Temple Complex. Spanning 500 hectares across the villages of Segaran in Batujaya Subdistrict and Telagajaya in Pakisjaya Subdistrict, this ancient site holds the title of Indonesia’s oldest temple complex, its origins predating even the famed Borobudur Temple.

Discovered by a team of archaeologists from the University of Indonesia in 1985, the Batujaya Temple Complex revealed approximately 30 temples and shrines scattered across its vast area. Among these, Candi Jiwa and Candi Blandongan stand out as the most significant. Candi Jiwa, with its square base measuring 19 meters on each side, and Candi Blandongan, a larger structure with a base of 25.33 meters by 25.33 meters, are testaments to a lost civilization that once thrived along the Citarum.

Artifacts found within the complex, including epigraphy, votive tablets with Buddhist reliefs, clay tablet fragments inscribed with Pallava script, and pottery, suggest a rich cultural and religious history. Carbon-14 dating estimates that these structures were built during the era of the Tarumanegara Kingdom, around the 6th to 10th centuries AD.

Hasan Djafar, a prominent archaeologist, highlighted the significance of Batujaya in his book Kompleks Percandian Batujaya (2010), noting that the temples were constructed in two phases. Djafar also marveled at the advanced technology used in building the temples, particularly the bricks made from clay mixed with rice husks and fired at 700 degrees Celsius. These bricks, remarkably durable, have withstood the test of time for centuries.

But Batujaya’s significance goes beyond its construction. The discovery of prehistoric human skeletons, estimated to date back to the 2nd to 3rd centuries AD, along with grave goods such as pottery, jewelry, and metal tools, further underscores the area’s historical importance. These finds suggest a connection to the Buni culture, a civilization that flourished between the early Christian era and 500 AD.

While Batujaya has been recognized for its historical value, another ancient site along the Citarum River has not fared as well. The Bojongmenje Temple, located in Bojongmenje Village in Rancaekek Subdistrict, Bandung Regency, has long been neglected and forgotten.

First discovered by local residents in August 2002, Bojongmenje Temple has since suffered from the ravages of time and human activity. The temple, believed to have been built between the 5th and 7th centuries AD, is now little more than a few scattered stones. Once a majestic structure, it is thought to have had a square base measuring six meters on each side, constructed from andesite stone.

Radiocarbon dating estimates that Bojongmenje Temple is around 1,300 years old. Despite its age and historical significance, the temple has not received the attention it deserves. The temple’s remains are now overshadowed by modern developments, with some of its stones even damaged by residents digging for graves.

The Citarum River has witnessed the rise and fall of many civilizations. From the ancient Hindu-Buddhist temples of Batujaya and Bojongmenje to the ruins of Bojongemas Temple in Solokan Jaya Subdistrict, the river has been a silent observer of history. These temples, though now largely forgotten, once stood as centers of spiritual and cultural activity, reflecting the rich history of West Java.

Today, the Batujaya Temple Complex is recognized as a National Cultural Heritage site, a designation that offers some hope for its preservation. However, the story of Bojongmenje serves as a stark reminder of the fragility of history and the importance of preserving our cultural heritage.

As modern life continues to encroach upon these ancient sites, it is crucial that we remember the stories they tell. The Citarum River, once the lifeblood of great civilizations, still carries echoes of the past. These temples, now reclaimed by nature, are silent witnesses to a time when the river was more than just a body of water—it was the heart of a thriving, ancient civilization.