The Colonial Legacy of Kota Lama, Semarang: A Historical Overview


 

Nestled within the heart of Semarang, Kota Lama, or the Old Town, stands as a testament to the city’s rich colonial history. Traces of Dutch influence permeate this area, a legacy of the VOC (Dutch East India Company), which seized control of Semarang and established exclusive settlements in what is now known as Kota Lama. Before its bankruptcy in 1799, the VOC maintained a firm grip on the city, shaping its infrastructure and culture in ways that are still evident today.

The VOC’s presence in Semarang dates back to the 17th century when the company began its expansion across the Nusantara (Indonesian Archipelago). As part of its strategy to secure trade routes and control key port cities, the VOC constructed a fort in Semarang, named De Vijfhoek van Samarang. Located on the western side of what is now Kota Lama, this pentagon-shaped fort was typical of military bases of the time, featuring pallisades (tight rows of pointed stakes) and five watchtowers. These towers were named Zeeland, Amsterdam, Utrecht, Raamsdonk, and Bunschoten, after prominent Dutch cities.

According to historian Dewi Yuliati in her work Mengungkap Sejarah Kota Lama Semarang dan Pengembangannya Sebagai Asset Pariwisata Budaya (2019), the fort was not merely a military installation but also housed settlements for VOC employees. The fort stood from 1677 until 1741, after which it was expanded to cover the entire area of Kota Lama, transforming the city into a miniaturized version of the Netherlands, complete with surrounding canals. This transformation earned the area the nickname “Little Netherland.”

To facilitate movement within this burgeoning European enclave, a main road known as De Heerenstaart, now Jalan Letjend Suprapto, was constructed. This road later became part of the Groote Postweg (Great Post Road), following an order by Governor-General Herman Willem Daendels, who was responsible for the development of Java’s infrastructure during the Dutch colonial period.

The urban planning of Kota Lama mirrored that of European cities, with a focus on centralizing administrative and civic buildings. The Town Hall, originally located on Oude Stadhuisstraat (now Jalan Branjangan), was the focal point of this European-style city. Unfortunately, a fire in 1850 destroyed the original Town Hall, which was subsequently replaced by a new building in Bojong, now Jalan Pemuda.

One of the most enduring landmarks of Kota Lama is the Nederlandsch Indische Kerk, known to locals as Gereja Blenduk due to its distinctive dome-shaped roof. This church remains a key feature of the area and continues to serve the local community for worship services.

Beyond its administrative and religious significance, Kota Lama also emerged as a hub of industry and commerce. The area was home to several prominent businesses, including G.C.T. Van Dorp & Co., a printing company, Hotel Jansen, the first European hotel in Semarang, and Marabunta, a theater where the Dutch elite would gather to enjoy opera performances.

The District Court (Landraad) was located on De Heerenstraat, close to other important institutions such as the Nederlandsche Handel Maatschappij trading company and the Cultuur Maatschappij der Vorstenlanden plantation products processing company. The exclusive nature of the area earned it the moniker Europeesche Buurt (European Quarter) or De Oude Stad (Old City), as it was the first residential area for European settlers in Semarang.

While the VOC established the foundations of Kota Lama, it was the work of Dutch architect Herman Thomas Karsten that left an indelible mark on Semarang’s urban landscape. Arriving in the Dutch East Indies in 1914, Karsten was instrumental in designing many of the city’s key structures, including those in Kota Lama.

Karsten, born in Amsterdam in 1884 to a Dutch father and a Javanese mother, was a graduate of Delft Polytechnische School. His work in Semarang was part of a broader career that saw him involved in urban planning across the Dutch East Indies. Out of 19 local rulers in Java, 12 entrusted their city planning to Karsten, as did several rulers in Sumatra and Kalimantan.

In Kota Lama, Karsten designed several notable buildings, including the grand offices of the Dutch East Indies Life Insurance Company, now occupied by PT Asuransi Jiwasraya, and the Stoomvaart Maatschappij Nederland, a Dutch shipping company. His influence extended beyond Kota Lama to other parts of Semarang, including Candi Baru, Sompok, and Simpang Lima, which is now the city’s largest business district.

Karsten’s career, like the VOC’s dominance, came to an abrupt end during World War II. When Japanese forces occupied Java in 1942, Karsten was captured and interned in Baros, Cimahi. He passed away in 1945, a day before his 61st birthday. His legacy, however, lives on in the buildings and urban plans he left behind, particularly in Semarang, which served as both the pinnacle of his career and a giant laboratory for his ideas.

Today, Kota Lama remains a vibrant historical district, where the echoes of colonialism blend with the modern pulse of Semarang. The area, with its preserved architecture and historical significance, continues to attract visitors who seek to understand the complex and layered history of Indonesia’s colonial past.

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